Travel log

coucher du soleil

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A graduate of l’École de danse du Québec in 1989, Harold Rhéaume first worked with Danse Partout (Québec) before joining the ranks of the prestigious Dance Lab Group in Ottawa. Under the guidance of Peter Boneham, he began exploring the fundamentals of dance performance and choreographic creation. He settled in Montréal in 1993 and rapidly gained recognition. In 1997, La Presse newspaper said that "…when he dances, Harold Rhéaume radiates such intensity that he seems larger than life, …he is among those who dance to say things and move you." Like Robert Lepage, Rhéaume returned to Québec city, founding his company Le fils d’Adrien danse (his father’s name) in Saint-Roch, which was at the time transforming into a culturally vibrant neighborhood.

With his humanism as well as his interest in clarity of intent, Harold Rhéaume distinguishes himself from other formal and conceptual trends. His pieces are inventive and refined without ever being pretentious. Inspired by day to day life, Rhéaume works from instinct and spontaneity and has a wide spectrum of influences including musicals, theater, painting, modern architecture, jazz and contemporary music. He also distinguishes himself in having his dancers be part of the creative process. Their personalities and personal experiences, and even their limits, are of much importance in shaping the shows.

Openly homosexual, the choreographer responds with humor when a journalist asks him if all contemporary dancers are gay : "That is wholly exaggerated. I’d say 90%!"

In addition to the choreographic work with his own company, Harold Rhéaume has worked with Cirque du Soleil and contributed to theater, cinema and opera. He is a teacher of physical expression at the Conservatoire d’art dramatique de Québec, as well as choreographic creation at l’École de danse de Québec and l’École de danse contemporaine de Montréal.

East of the Saint-Charles river and next to Saint-Roch, Limoilou was, throughout the 20th century, the most working-class neighbourhood of Québec city. The American-style urban planning with checkered streets and avenues and rows of triplex apartment buildings is in notable contrast to both the old city, which was built before the arrival of the automobile, and the newer suburbs surrounding it. With its tree-lined avenues typical of 20th century city life and the huge, inexpensive apartments, it has long attracted many students enrolled at the Limoilou cégep, one of the most important colleges in the region. 

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Marie-Claire Blais


The area takes its name from the French seigneurie of Jacques-Cartier, who was the first explorer to set foot on its soil. Today, it is one of the trendiest neighbourhoods of Québec, thus attracting many gays and lesbians early on. The reinvigoration of Limoilou is particularly noticeable along 3rd avenue in the heart of Vieux-Limoilou, where many restaurants and pubs have set up shop. The new nearby Centre Vidéotron performance hall has also largely contributed to this revitalization.
Fine dining in Limoilou
Among the gay-friendly establishments of Limoilou, the restaurants La Planque and Cendrillon are two key locations on 3rd avenue. La Planque is set up as a sort of shelter from the storm, featuring four distinct atmospheres: the basement hideout is intimate and perfect for meetings, the bar section for a more casual ambiance, the kitchen area is great for those who want to be at the centre of the action, and the mezzanine, which is intimate while still allowing a view of the kitchen and bar. Its neighbour, Le Cendrillon, is a friendly restaurant with an unpretentious and eclectic décor. It aimed to revive a cult neighbourhood location of the same name from the 50’s. Local products are carefully selected from nearby establishments and are at the heart of their menu, composed of homemade-style dishes, Québec cheeses, an oyster bar and wood charcoal-grilled meats.
The nearby Fun en Bouche is Limoilou’s “green” restaurant. In an urban and minimalist décor, this eco-friendly spot specializes in breakfasts, with eggs Benedict, omelettes, crêpes, bread puddings and Viennese pastries. They also serve light meals like paninis, ciabatta or bagel sandwiches and quiches.
On Chemin de la Canardière in the eastern part of the neighbourhood, the pizzeria Le Maizerets is a must. The place has been operating as a pizzeria for more than 50 years, and for the past 30 years the current restaurant has specialized in thin-crust pizzas - some say the best you can find west of Rome

The Massimadi Festival, special edition, celebrates Black History Month from February 15 to 18, 2024, at the McCord Museum Stewart with the theme of Transcendence. This cinematic celebration presents a variety of films, including the opening documentary, Disruptor Conductor (2019), offering a captivating insight into the life of Afro-Canadian conductor Daniel Bartholomew-Poyser. Among the noteworthy artworks, Who I am Not (2023) by Tunde Skovran emotionally explores the intersex experience, while All the Colours of the World Are Between Black and White (2023) by Babatunde Apalolo addresses the challenges of LGBTQ+ relationships in a society where homosexuality remains taboo. RAIZES (2023) by Céline RUFFIN-BAYARDIN delves into the universe of the lesbian-trans-activist batucada Raízes Arrechas in Paris. Each screening will be followed by discussion circles or Q&A sessions, allowing direct exchanges between the audience and the artists. On February 17, seize the unique opportunity to witness the first performance of Afro-Canadian conductor Daniel Bartholomew-Poyser in Montreal, in collaboration with the Obiora Ensemble. This special edition promises a transcendent experience, celebrating the diversity and resilience of Black LGBTQ+ communities.

 Today Capital Pride announced its inaugural Ice Parade, taking place during Winterlude as part of a winter celebration of Pride. The Ice Parade, Canada’s first-ever Pride parade on ice, kicks-off at 4 p.m. on the Rideau Canal Skateway at the Concord Rest Area on Sunday, February 11, 2024, ending at the Fifth Avenue Rest Area in The Glebe.
The ice-parade will feature music and a DJ set, local drag performers on skates, and Capital Pride’s 30-foot Progress Pride Flag carried by players from Ottawa Pride Hockey. Festival-goes, community members and allies are invited to meet at the start of the parade, at the Concord Rest Area on the Rideau Canal, in skates or on foot, or join in along the route.
“Capital Pride is committed to advocating for the 2SLGBTQIA+ community, as well as creating opportunities to celebrate our diversity. We’re lucky to be able to celebrate that diversity on the world’s longest skating rink!” says Callie Metler, Capital Pride Executive Director.
“Winterlude is no ordinary winter event; it’s an opportunity to celebrate Canada’s rich culture and diversity in so many different ways. Whether you’re a fan of the outdoors, shows, exhibitions or cultural discoveries, Winterlude features indoor and outdoor activities that offer something for everyone. Come join the celebration at the 46th Winterlude from February 2 to 19!” says Pascale St-Onge, Minister of Canadian Heritage.
Winter Pride activities take place February 5-11, including outdoor drag shows on Sparks Street, drag storytime and other family programming. This year’s Winter Pride is presented in partnership with Winterlude.
Capital Pride celebrates the rich and diverse 2SLGBTQIA+ community in the Capital Region. Mission is to create opportunities to advocate, educate and connect people through programming and events in partnership with our partner community groups, businesses, and sponsors.

Presented as part of the WILDSIDE Festival, award-winning drag comedienne Pearle Harbour presents Agit-Pop!, a hilarious and heartbreaking cabaret for the end times. Think Judy Garland at Carnegie, on acid.

Weaving her signature wit and demented storytelling through the headlines, Pearle takes on the world, from climate catastrophes, to nuclear anxiety, the lust for housing, the dark web, fake news and real history.

Accompanied by musical director Stella Conway, Agit-Pop! reimagines the number-one hits of David Bowie, Britney Spears, The Beach Boys, and more, as you've never heard them before.


By Gaëtan Vaudry

Running a chocolate shop involves a deep commitment to a fascinating world. This is exactly what chocolatier Véronique Émond has been doing since founding Choco Véro in 2017. A year later, she left her role as the head of food services at the Baie-Comeau detention center to dedicate herself entirely to her business.

In an interview with journalist Charlotte Paquet from the La Manic newspaper of Baie-Comeau in 2018, Véronique stated that "there is no price for living your passion." And that’s what she has been doing with her partner, investing at least 70 hours per week. Besides selling her products at her Place La Salle store and through her Facebook page, Véronique also offers her products in about a dozen convenience stores from Colombier to Port-Cartier.

ChocoVero2

The Best Local Ingredients

Since October, the artist at Choco Véro has been working on her holiday products and, for a few days now, preparing her offerings for Valentine's Day, a pivotal period for chocolateries. This will be followed by Easter, Mother's Day, and Father's Day: "Our products are handmade with the finest local ingredients," the chocolatier proudly emphasizes. "We guarantee that you will savor the taste of your personalized treat with every bite."

ChocoVero3 ChocoVero4 ChocoVero5

In our meeting, the businesswoman explained her deep involvement in fundraising campaigns. Numerous organizations seek her services for custom-made chocolates, which they then sell for fundraising purposes. "I love to get involved in these causes close to my heart," she specifies. "Choco Véro is also actively involved in the campaign for the Canadian Multiple Sclerosis Society, as well as cancer causes." Last November 28, Véronique proudly participated in GivingTuesday, where several businesses in Baie-Comeau donated their day's profits to United Way.

Choco Véro
8, Place La Salle
Baie-Comeau, Québec
418 293-2120
chocovero.com

By Gaëtan Vaudry

If I were to summarize my interview with Jean-François Cloutier, co-founder and co-owner of St. Laurent Distillery, in one word, it would be PASSION. The entrepreneur welcomes me to the company's new facilities, a magnificent building by the sea, located in the Pointe-au-Père district, in Rimouski. In a matter of seconds, I am immersed in the world of whiskey and gin distillation, which has built the reputation of this business employing 25 staff members.

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The micro-distillery was founded in 2015 by Jean-François and his accomplice Joël Pelletier, when their very first product, St-Laurent Gin, quickly caused a sensation and is now available in 14 countries – no small feat! “It was through discussing our passion for certain spirits that Joel and I developed the project to produce our own whisky,” Jean-François explains. “Today, we believe in it more than ever, especially when we look at the 300 barrels currently aging in our reserve. We are proud to be among the pioneers of micro-distillation in Quebec.”

Educating People

While St. Laurent Distillery produces a variety of products that delight enthusiasts, the owners have made it their mission to educate visitors on the fascinating production of spirits like whisky, gin, and Acerum, a brand-new class of spirit made from maple syrup distillation: “It was important for us to offer mixology workshops, including the history of cocktails and a theoretical overview of the spirits universe,” the co-owner proudly points out. “The basic tour is 45 minutes to an hour and includes some theoretical segments. Additionally, thanks to a coupon system, people can taste many of our products.”

Enthusiasts visiting 135, avenue Père-Nouvel in Rimouski also have access to the micro-distillery’s store, not to mention four well-appointed areas, including the establishment's bar and its terrace (with a sea view), a second terrace (the Terrasse-Nord) available during the beautiful summer season, as well as the magnificent courtyard which, also in summer, allows the St. Laurent Distillery team to host chefs who offer small dishes on site, and even musical groups and DJs.

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Acerum Festival

In our conversation, Jean-François, always brimming with ideas, talks about creating a new Acerum festival, set to debut in 2024. While the dates have yet to be announced, the concept is well underway and will be revealed soon: “This festival will be an opportunity for us to develop partnerships with collaborators and producers from all over Quebec, including several local maple groves.”

If you are not yet familiar with the products of St. Laurent Distillery, a visit to the facilities is a must. To deepen your knowledge of whisky and gin, I strongly suggest the Grand tour du proprio package (approximately 2 hours long). In any case, you will need to reserve your spot HERE, via the company's website.

St. Laurent Distillery
135, avenue Père-Nouvel
Rimouski
418 880-4694
distilleriedustlaurent.com


By Gaëtan Vaudry

Since 2017, Microbrewery La Mouche has been turning heads with its beers, almost exclusively crafted from Quebecois ingredients, without any additives.

Right off the bat, Kelly Mansbridge, the head of sales and marketing at the young Natashquan microbrewery, shared her insights on a slight slump the Quebec microbrewing industry had been experiencing for several months, as reported by some media in November: "It's certainly not easy," she candidly noted. "With many microbreweries in Quebec and a vast range of products available to enthusiasts, the market is becoming increasingly competitive."

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Natashquan's Own Wild Yeast

Gabriel Turner, the artist and craftsman behind the success of La Mouche's beers, originally from Montreal and adopted by Natashquan, founded the microbrewery in 2017. He brewed his very first beer at the Microbrewery St-Pancrace in Baie-Comeau, before moving to Natashquan three years later. "Gabriel loves Natashquan for its wild nature, its unfenced lands, and the social life of a welcoming community," Kelly proudly mentioned. "Passionate about this beautiful region of the North Shore, Gabriel aimed to create jobs in the area. He wanted to produce a beer for the local people." After extensive research and development, Gabriel achieved his goal, brewing beers with Quebec hops and grains, and even cultivating his own wild yeast in Natashquan!

I had the opportunity to taste only one product from Microbrewery La Mouche: Mlle Manon, a gently wheat beer with little bitterness, inspired by German hefeweizens. This beer's effervescence is lively, almost sharp. In its large bottle, one finds a hazy, foamy, and sparkling beer with a fresh and pleasant grainy flavor. Mlle Manon is remarkably refreshing, which is exactly what I look for in a beer!

Mikushkuau: The Microbrewery's New Beer

Microbrewery La Mouche offers more than 16 varieties of beer, from Bomber Jaune to Mickey Finn, including Cosse Boom, Pelletier, Pirate, Muddler, Pompier, Green Butt, and Colibri, to name just a few. Did you know that each beer name refers to a fly used in fly fishing? For instance, the microbrewery recently announced its new beer, Mikushkuau ("The sky is red" in Innu language), inspired by a fishing fly specially created for the company by Audrey Ringuette, founder of the North Shore enterprise Shakutaimu. Ms. Ringuette offers introductory fly fishing courses for everyone.

La Mouche's beers are available at over 150 locations in Quebec, especially in establishments specializing in microbrewery beers (see the list here).

Microbrewery La Mouche
33, Chemin de l'Aéroport
Natashquan (Québec)
418 962-6003
microbrasserielamouche.com

By Gaëtan Vaudry

Connoisseurs of fine dining in Matane are familiar with Pub La Fabrique and its namesake Artisanal Brewery, located on Saint-Jérôme Avenue. Matane's first artisanal brewery sprung up in the summer of 2010. Owned by the cooperative Le Cabestan, it has been gaining popularity ever since.

At Pub La Fabrique, you can enjoy an excellent pub-style meal featuring fish & chips, burgers, sandwiches, salads, and appetizers, along with sipping on a finely brewed beer made on-site, or one of the 35 whiskies that have built the establishment's reputation. During my meeting with Jean-Pierre Boutin (pictured), a member of the cooperative's board, the La Fabrique team had just unveiled their much-anticipated Holiday menu (discoverable here), to the delight of the place's many patrons. This menu is available every evening from 4 PM until mid-January.

Pub La Fabrique is simply stunning. With a cozy decor spread over two floors, it regularly hosts shows by emerging artists, drawing crowds to Saint-Jérôme Street, and often creating a buzzing atmosphere in the pub.

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Supporting Matane's Businesses

La Fabrique - Artisanal Brewery brews around 25 beers, ranging from their classics to seasonal varieties, including oak barrel-aged beers. As Jean-Pierre Boutin explains, the brewery strives to use local products as much as possible, aiming to support businesses in Matane and the surrounding region.

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If you're passing through Matane, a stop at the pub and the adjacent La Fabrique Brewery is a must. At the latter, you can sample the establishment's offerings and visit the official shop, which boasts an array of products.

Pub La Fabrique La Fabrique - Artisanal Brewery
360, Saint-Jérôme Avenue 366, Saint-Jérôme Avenue
Matane (Quebec) Matane (Quebec)
418 566-4020 418 566-4020
publafabrique.com publafabrique.com

By Gaëtan Vaudry

During a 40-day tour of Eastern Quebec and New Brunswick, we visited many places and met numerous people! Some places captured our attention, and one of them was the LaRichardière inn, located in the village municipality of Godbout on the North Shore, with a population of just 262 inhabitants, according to the Ministry of Municipal Affairs and Housing.

I must say from the outset that the place is simply magnificent. And what about our hosts, Claude-Joseph Gosselin and his wonderful dog Body (a Great Dane-Labrador mix), who welcomed us like royalty! We arrived on a Wednesday evening, after a long day's drive. We were greeted in a splendid house dating back to 1928, warm and tastefully decorated. Claude-Joseph, who has traveled extensively himself, has personalized his hosting style. Proudly, he doesn't overdo it. Just enough. And that's what the guests – myself included – appreciate about him.

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Four Artists from the Region

I'd like to begin by talking about the history of this nearly centenarian house. Why is it named LaRichardière? To pay tribute to two important figures in the eyes of Claude-Joseph. The first is the noble Richard Testu de la Richardière (1681-1741), a ship's captain and harbor master, and master pilot in the St. Lawrence River and Gulf. And also for Mathieu Richard, a worker who lived in this magnificent residence with his family for over 40 years. The inn features four bedrooms, each named in honor of a regional artist. There's the Gilles Vigneault room (famous poet from Natashquan), the Éric Maillet room (sculptor and blacksmith, Bergeronnais by adoption), the Claude Le Sauteur room (painter, 1926-2007), and finally, the Francine Chicoine room (author from Baie-Comeau). Notably, the bed in the Éric Maillet room was custom-made by the artist himself (see the photo). A truly unique work of art! "I wanted to honor regional artists," the owner proudly states. "I obtained the permissions and have since made it my mission to introduce their talent to many of our guests."

One could almost say that the LaRichardière inn is a mini museum. It houses several works of art, a multitude of books on the region's history, and a passionate host, who kindly introduced me to the work of the painter Claude Le Sauteur. Truly enriching.

A Delight for the Taste Buds

Claude-Joseph, who has lived in Godbout for three decades, manages this inn with passion. Coming from the hotel industry, he takes care of the management, entertainment, cooking, and even housekeeping. Speaking of food, our host knows his stuff! For breakfast, he starts us off with orange juice, followed by a magnificent bowl of fresh fruit, which is a delight for the taste buds. We finish with excellent French toast, served with homemade raspberry jam and, of course, delicious local maple syrup. What more could one ask for?

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I can only say bravo and thank you to Claude-Joseph for these memorable 24 hours. I would have gladly accepted a longer stay, to discover more about this charming little seaside region and to play with

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