Destination

Since 2014, Pride has been a growing event. in Pembroke. Pride Walk began when a group of friends decided that the city—and the Ottawa Valley area in general—needed more LGBTQ+ awareness and representation. So, they organized their first Pride event in 2014, a walk through downtown Pembroke with almost 150 attendees. In the past five years, their work has expanded beyond events—organizers recently partnered with PFLAG Renfrew County to bring support meetings to the Ottawa Valley. And events go well beyond the OG walk; last year’s schedule included an inclusive yoga class, Drag Queen Storytime at Pembroke’s public library, an all-ages drag show and, of course, brunch, an overall attendance of a thousand people.

Usually taking place early June, the 2020 schedule is still to be confirmed due to the current coronavirus pandemic.

The territories of the Gaspé and the Maritimes covered in this Guide have been occupied for millennia by the Mi'gmaqs whom the French called Micmacs. Even today, it is the communities of this First Nation that you will meet throughout this territory.
In Gaspé, the symbolic site of the first encounters between French explorer Jacques Cartier and this Aboriginal nation, the Micmac Interpretation Site of Gespeg's mission is to showcase the Mi'kmaq culture of the Gaspé community. Through its interpretive activities, this site highlights the history of the community from 1675 to the present day, offering an authentic and original experience to its visitors. The on-site store offers a range of authentic and quality handcrafted products. It showcases Mi'gmaq craftsmanship as well as other products from native cultures of Quebec.
On the Baie des Chaleurs side, Gesgapegiag attracts many tourists eager to take advantage of the various attractions of this part of Mi'gmaq territory. For tourists coming to tour the Gaspé, it is possible to stop in the community for a picnic in the community park or to admire the tipi that was erected by the sea in 2018.
The community of Gesgapegiag has acquired a chalet estate and has set up several tipis in Anse Sainte-Hélène to offer tourists the chance to experience an authentic stay. It is also possible for tourists to stay in the replica of the ship La Grande Hermine, one of the ships used by Jacques Cartier. For hikers and snowmobilers, Le Relais de la Cache is located near the Chic-Chocs mountains.
Every year in July, the community organizes a Pow-Wow, a traditional festival attended by all the Mi'gmaqs of the region and to which all those interested in learning about their culture and traditions are invited. This celebration combines songs, dances, cuisine and traditional stories.

Built along the port, the formerly walled off old city has a gastronomic tradition that goes back to the colony’s beginnings. A time when hostels welcomed visitors from all over the continent and across the Atlantic. The Maison Pierre-du-Calvet, which was constructed in 1771, today still attests to this tradition, as it is the oldest building in Montréal still welcoming visitors and offering them its copious cuisine in the style of 18th century inns. Since that time, the gastronomic propositions have of course evolded and become more diversified – there are many great restaurants to be discovered in historic Old Montréal.

Near Notre-Dame Cathedral, you can begin or end your evening at L’Assommoir, with its trendy atmosphere and emphasis is on products of the terroir. On De la Commune street, just next to the Old Port, Da Emma is à Montréal Classic. From the decor to the plate, everything here transports us to Italy. More specifically, to one of those dining cellars that you only come across in Rome, which seems almost frozen in time. Located in a basement, the intimate space seats 140, plus another 70 on the terrace in front of the restaurant, weather permitting.

At the entrance, the celebrity wall confirms the reputation of the establishment with a numerous photos of stars from all over the world photographed with Emma. White tablecloths, period paintings, stone walls and wooden ceilings… the Italian charm is immediately felt, and most welcome.
With the urban re-development of the Faubourg aux Récollets west of Old Montréal, McGill Street has become a sought-after stretch of great restaurants and bistros from the Old Port to Victoria square. With its warm décor and friendly, laid-back ambiance, Ikanos invites you to rediscover some of the classics of Greek and Mediterranean cuisine, reinvented by the chef and owner Constant Mentzas. The seafood and fish is carefully selected and grilled in wood fire ovens. Located on the site of the old Soeurs Grises nunnery near the Old Port, the Bistro Brasserie Les Soeurs Grises offers a selection of home-brewed beers and a menu composed of local products.

The governments of Canada and Quebec are taking an important step by announcing their joint intention to begin working to expand the boundaries of the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park. This project aims to better protect the biodiversity and ecosystems of the St. Lawrence Estuary, which is home to nearly 2,200 species, some of which, like the beluga, are in a precarious situation.

The announcement was made today by Steven Guilbeault, Minister of Environment and Climate Change and Minister responsible for Parks Canada, and the Québec Minister of Environment, Climate Change, Benoit Charette.

Protection of the St. Lawrence beluga

The expansion project's main objective is to protect the critical habitat of the St. Lawrence beluga, of which more than 60 percent currently lies outside the boundaries of the marine park. It also aims to preserve a high-quality feeding ground for several species of whales, some of which are in a precarious situation. In 2020, as a first act of protection by the Government of Québec, and while waiting for a legal status of protection, territorial reserves were set aside with the end goal of eventually creating protected areas. This project would help to consolidate the protection of a significant part of these territories. As currently planned, the project could quadruple the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park's area.

Today's announcement is a first step toward expansion of the marine park. In the coming months, the governments of Canada and Québec will jointly meet with regional and municipal organizations, as well as all stakeholders involved in the project, including First nations, research groups and local businesses to exchange perspectives and obtain feedback. Finally, a public consultation phase will be held, during which the proposed limits and the proposed protection measures will be discussed.

Recognized expertise

Backed with more than 25 years of Canada-Québec co-management and participatory governance in the region, the marine park is a unique model for collaboration and partnerships for the conservation of the marine environment. The expertise of its coordination committee and its teams in the fields of marine activity regulation, education, awareness, visitor experience and scientific research makes it a privileged protection tool, mainly for marine mammals, adapted to the context of the St. Lawrence estuary and the Saguenay Fjord.

The governments of Canada and Quèbec recognize that the protection of an environment as extensively used as the St. Lawrence Estuary requires strong joint cooperation, close collaboration with all members of the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park Coordination Committee and consultation with a multitude of regional stakeholders.Quotes:

''As a joint Québec-Canada marine protected area, the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park has a 25-year history of collaborative conservation and public education successes. Its expansion will allow our governments to work together on several shared priorities, including the protection of marine biodiversity and the recovery of species at risk such as the St. Lawrence beluga. This collaboration between our governments is a clear sign that protecting biodiversity and endangered species is a shared priority. At COP15, we made ambitious commitments, a"nd today we are taking an important step towards achieving these goals."  Declares S teven Guilbeault, Minister responsible for Parks Canada

"The Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park is a source of national pride and a true natural jewel of Quebec. The Government of Québec is proud of this unique partnership with the federal government, which will improve the protection of marine mammals living in the Saint Lawrence Estuary, such as the beluga, which is an emblematic species of the fragility of this habitat. The knowledge gained in recent years sends a clear signal of what we must do to protect it. With extensive experience in co-management and participatory governance, the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park is a model for protecting marine environments that promote sustainable tourism and benefit local communities. I am convinced that the leadership, experience and trusting relationships that have been at the heart of the park's management since its inception will be catalysts for the next steps toward this promising expansion project for our nation!"

Added Benoit Charette, Québec Minister of the Environment, the Fight against Climate Change, Wildlife and Parks

Highlights

Concerns about the decline of the beluga and its habitat were a determining factor in the creation of the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park (SSMP) in 1998. The SSMP is a unique Québec/Canada joint marine protected area created by Québec and federal legislation, the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park Act.
With a current surface area of 1,245 square kilometres (km2), the SSMP is located on Quèbec public lands at the confluence of the Saguenay River and the St. Lawrence Estuary. Its mandate is to enhance the level of protection of the ecosystems of a representative part of the Saguenay Fjord and the St. Lawrence Estuary for the purposes of conservation and environmental protection of the exceptional flora and fauna and natural resources found there, in addition to promoting sustainable educational, recreational and scientific activities.
The management of SSMP, under the joint responsibility of the Ministère de l'Environnement, de la Lutte contre les changements climatiques, de la Faune et des Parcs, of the Société des établissements de plein air du Québec (Sépaq) and Parks Canada, is based on a participatory governance approach that is unique in Canada and relies on stakeholders working together at the local, regional and national levels to achieve its objectives. Its coordination committee is composed of representatives of the Essipit Innu First Nation, the Wolastoqiyik Wahsipekuk First Nation, the Charlevoix-Est regional county municipalities (RCM), the Saguenay Fjord, la Haute-Côte-Nord, and representatives of the three southern shore RCMs (des Basques, Rivière-du-Loup and Kamouraska), the scientific community, and the interpretation and education community.
Since the creation of SSMP in 1998, significant efforts have been made by the involved parties to preserve marine mammals, including beluga. However, its population has continued to decline since then, at a rate of about 1% per year. It now has fewer than 900 individuals. Since the 2000s, there has been a critical and unexplained increase in mortality among newborns and females of reproductive age, which suggests an acceleration of the beluga's decline in the coming years.

You can’t talk about Mile End gastronomy without talking about Montréal’s Jewish and Eastern European heritage. It is the centre of the emblematic institutions of this legacy in the city, where immigrant Jews, most of them from Eastern Europe, brought us the bagel, the smoked meat sandwich and cured sausages in the early 20th century. In Mile End you’ll find the two temples of bagels that are Fairmount Bagel and Saint-Viateur Bagel. The story goes that the Montréal bagel is sweeter and more delicate than its New York cousin, a probable result of adapting to local taste. Try out a sausage sandwich at Wilensky’s on Fairmount Street. Smoked meat fans will definitely want to wait in line to try Montréal’s famous smoked meat sandwiches at the restaurant Schwartz on St-Laurent, just south of the Mile End.

The specialties of bagels and sandwiches associated with the Mile End neighbourhood are most probably linked to its being a favoured brunching destination. This tradition has been well established by the restaurant Beauty’s on Mont-Royal Avenue, where bagels are a specialty. Restaurants such as B & M or Fabergé, located on St-Viateur and Fairmount respectively, offer their own updated version of the Mile End brunch. The Syrian restaurant Kazamaza on Parc Avenue even proposes a Middle Eastern version of it.

The multiethnic character of the neighbourhood is, of course, also reflected in the more refined eateries of the area, with some fine cuisine from all sides of the Mediterranean basin. In the intimate décor of bistro Barcola on Parc Avenue, you will discover authentic Northern Italian cuisine. At the limits of Outremont on the corner of Van Horne and Hutchison, the Caffé Della Pace prepares a variety of Italian coffees and offers healthy, homemade vegetarian dishes composed of fresh ingredients. The prices are very reasonable and the atmosphere is friendly, with a piano in one corner and sofas in another. Both families with children and queers rub shoulders here. The fancy bistro Chez Lévêque on Laurier West has remained a very popular spot for the past 45 years. There is a humorous, slightly irreverent tone here, and a religious theme is displayed in reference to the patronymic of chef and co-owner Pierre Lévêque (L’évêque meaning Bishop). This chic Parisian brasserie with a distinctive Montréal touch has never deviated from the concept that made its success: good food and wine, in a trendy but casual ambiance. Their “faim de soirée” menu becomes available after 9pm, with more affordable prices attracting a younger clientele.

Of course, this neighbourhood’s culinary spectrum is much larger than what we can possibly cram into this page, and Local Montréal Tours can design customized gourmet tours that allow for rich and diverse Mile End discoveries.

In the estuary of the Restigouche River, at the end of Chaleur Bay, lies the national historic site of the Battle of the Restigouche, 3 km west of the municipality of Pointe-à-la-Croix. This historic site commemorates the last naval battle of the Seven Years' War between the French and English for possession of New France…

But it was also near this site, to the east of Pointe-à-la-Croix, that over a thousand Acadians fleeing deportation took refuge, in what was called in 1758 the village of Petite-Rochelle. At the time of the fall of Quebec in September 1759, the village was only defended by a fortified post and a handful of soldiers. Under the English threat, this Acadian refuge was nevertheless the last French bastion to capitulate. Here's why…

The last naval battle

At the end of May 1760, the Petite-Rochelle post received unexpected aid. The winter had been harsh, and the population had suffered greatly from famine. A French flotilla commanded by Lieutenant François Chenard de La Giraudais took refuge at the end of Chaleur Bay. Comprising the frigate Le Machault and two supply ships loaded to aid Canada, they had preferred to avoid encountering a larger English fleet that preceded them at the entrance of the Saint Lawrence River. On June 27, the three French ships were trapped by an English fleet of five warships commanded by Captain John Byron, who engaged in battle. The defense of the Petite-Rochelle post, however, was organized and supported by Acadian militiamen and Mi'kmaq warriors. François-Gabriel d’Anjeac, captain of the troops aboard the French ships, had taken command of the post and directed the construction of a battery and a guard post at Pointe-à-la-Garde (east of Pointe-à-la-Croix). This battery caused real damage to the English and delayed their progression towards the French ships. But the fight was uneven…

Estuary of the Restigouche River and Van Horne Bridge
Estuary of the Restigouche River and Van Horne Bridge connecting Campbellton to Pointe-à-la-Croix, viewed from Sugarloaf Mountain, New Brunswick. It is here that remains of the Machault still lie at the bottom of the river (author Blob5825, unmodified, license CC BY 1.0)
On July 8, at the end of a fierce battle, La Giraudais scuttled his ships to prevent the English from seizing the supplies and weapons. Quickly, Captain d’Anjeac led the retreat of his troops into the woods. However, the English fleet preferred to withdraw. Thus ended the battle of the Restigouche. The English had burned all the houses they found on the shore. The disaster was total. D’Anjeac still managed to organize the resistance of the Petite-Rochelle post, which still sheltered a thousand Acadian refugees. It was in vain… The French troops had to lay down their arms on October 30, after the capitulation of Montreal. The Acadians were left in place, plunged into great uncertainty, which did not prevent the Acadian privateers from continuing a relentless privateering war against the English boats. Several families had still managed to flee along Chaleur Bay and had founded the village of... Bonaventure.

By Gaëtan Vaudry

Tadoussac is arguably one of the most beautiful summer tourist regions in Quebec. However, this North Shore region is much quieter in winter. Fortunately, thanks to our friends at Chalets-camping Domaine des Dunes, it is possible to have very pleasant moments there, even in the winter season!

Located between the tourist village of Tadoussac and the famous Dunes (two huge marine sand terraces exposed by the last ice melt about 10,000 years ago), the Domaine des Dunes site, nestled in a birch forest, is simply enchanting. It offers both camping and chalet rentals that can accommodate up to six people, as well as the rental of a kamook and even a wooden tipi... nothing less! "We resume service in winter, to the delight of our customers," says co-owner Bernadette Roduit Bender, with a broad smile. "The experiences in kamook and tipi are done in camping styles, that is, with access to a sanitary facility with toilets and showers, washer and dryer, as well as a community room."

Several activities are available even in winter at Domaine des Dunes, including a highly appreciated welcome for snowmobile enthusiasts in the boreal forest, trails for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. In summer, the region abounds with activities, including whale watching cruises, black bear observation, sea kayaking, marine mammal interpretation center, the region's fine dining, and much more.

Bernadette, who is joined by her daughter and son for all aspects of Domaine des Dunes, has worked very hard in recent weeks to welcome you this winter. During my short visit to Tadoussac at the end of November, the family was busy making final adjustments to welcome numerous clients for the beautiful winter season. Moreover, Bernadette and her team invite you to book your chalet, kamook, or wooden tipi for the holiday season before December 10th. They even promise a nice surprise!

Domaine des Dunes (Chalets-camping)
585, Chemin de la Rivière-du-Moulin-à-Baude
Tadoussac
418 235-4843
domainedesdunes.com