Travel log

The governments of Canada and Quebec are taking an important step by announcing their joint intention to begin working to expand the boundaries of the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park. This project aims to better protect the biodiversity and ecosystems of the St. Lawrence Estuary, which is home to nearly 2,200 species, some of which, like the beluga, are in a precarious situation.

The announcement was made today by Steven Guilbeault, Minister of Environment and Climate Change and Minister responsible for Parks Canada, and the Québec Minister of Environment, Climate Change, Benoit Charette.

Protection of the St. Lawrence beluga

The expansion project's main objective is to protect the critical habitat of the St. Lawrence beluga, of which more than 60 percent currently lies outside the boundaries of the marine park. It also aims to preserve a high-quality feeding ground for several species of whales, some of which are in a precarious situation. In 2020, as a first act of protection by the Government of Québec, and while waiting for a legal status of protection, territorial reserves were set aside with the end goal of eventually creating protected areas. This project would help to consolidate the protection of a significant part of these territories. As currently planned, the project could quadruple the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park's area.

Today's announcement is a first step toward expansion of the marine park. In the coming months, the governments of Canada and Québec will jointly meet with regional and municipal organizations, as well as all stakeholders involved in the project, including First nations, research groups and local businesses to exchange perspectives and obtain feedback. Finally, a public consultation phase will be held, during which the proposed limits and the proposed protection measures will be discussed.

Recognized expertise

Backed with more than 25 years of Canada-Québec co-management and participatory governance in the region, the marine park is a unique model for collaboration and partnerships for the conservation of the marine environment. The expertise of its coordination committee and its teams in the fields of marine activity regulation, education, awareness, visitor experience and scientific research makes it a privileged protection tool, mainly for marine mammals, adapted to the context of the St. Lawrence estuary and the Saguenay Fjord.

The governments of Canada and Quèbec recognize that the protection of an environment as extensively used as the St. Lawrence Estuary requires strong joint cooperation, close collaboration with all members of the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park Coordination Committee and consultation with a multitude of regional stakeholders.Quotes:

''As a joint Québec-Canada marine protected area, the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park has a 25-year history of collaborative conservation and public education successes. Its expansion will allow our governments to work together on several shared priorities, including the protection of marine biodiversity and the recovery of species at risk such as the St. Lawrence beluga. This collaboration between our governments is a clear sign that protecting biodiversity and endangered species is a shared priority. At COP15, we made ambitious commitments, a"nd today we are taking an important step towards achieving these goals."  Declares S teven Guilbeault, Minister responsible for Parks Canada

"The Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park is a source of national pride and a true natural jewel of Quebec. The Government of Québec is proud of this unique partnership with the federal government, which will improve the protection of marine mammals living in the Saint Lawrence Estuary, such as the beluga, which is an emblematic species of the fragility of this habitat. The knowledge gained in recent years sends a clear signal of what we must do to protect it. With extensive experience in co-management and participatory governance, the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park is a model for protecting marine environments that promote sustainable tourism and benefit local communities. I am convinced that the leadership, experience and trusting relationships that have been at the heart of the park's management since its inception will be catalysts for the next steps toward this promising expansion project for our nation!"

Added Benoit Charette, Québec Minister of the Environment, the Fight against Climate Change, Wildlife and Parks

Highlights

Concerns about the decline of the beluga and its habitat were a determining factor in the creation of the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park (SSMP) in 1998. The SSMP is a unique Québec/Canada joint marine protected area created by Québec and federal legislation, the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park Act.
With a current surface area of 1,245 square kilometres (km2), the SSMP is located on Quèbec public lands at the confluence of the Saguenay River and the St. Lawrence Estuary. Its mandate is to enhance the level of protection of the ecosystems of a representative part of the Saguenay Fjord and the St. Lawrence Estuary for the purposes of conservation and environmental protection of the exceptional flora and fauna and natural resources found there, in addition to promoting sustainable educational, recreational and scientific activities.
The management of SSMP, under the joint responsibility of the Ministère de l'Environnement, de la Lutte contre les changements climatiques, de la Faune et des Parcs, of the Société des établissements de plein air du Québec (Sépaq) and Parks Canada, is based on a participatory governance approach that is unique in Canada and relies on stakeholders working together at the local, regional and national levels to achieve its objectives. Its coordination committee is composed of representatives of the Essipit Innu First Nation, the Wolastoqiyik Wahsipekuk First Nation, the Charlevoix-Est regional county municipalities (RCM), the Saguenay Fjord, la Haute-Côte-Nord, and representatives of the three southern shore RCMs (des Basques, Rivière-du-Loup and Kamouraska), the scientific community, and the interpretation and education community.
Since the creation of SSMP in 1998, significant efforts have been made by the involved parties to preserve marine mammals, including beluga. However, its population has continued to decline since then, at a rate of about 1% per year. It now has fewer than 900 individuals. Since the 2000s, there has been a critical and unexplained increase in mortality among newborns and females of reproductive age, which suggests an acceleration of the beluga's decline in the coming years.

The Gaspésie and Maritimes regions, covered in this guide, have been inhabited by the Mi'gmaq people for thousands of years. Today, visitors can still encounter many of these First Nation communities across the area.

In Gaspé, a city with a rich history of French explorer Jacques Cartier's interactions with the Mi'gmaq nation, the Gespeg Micmac Interpretation Site showcases the culture of the local Mi'gmaq community. Through interactive exhibits and guided tours, the site offers a fascinating insight into the history and traditions of the Mi'gmaq people. The on-site shop features a range of authentic, high-quality Mi'gmaq crafts and other Indigenous products from Quebec.

Further along the Baie des Chaleurs, Gesgapegiag is a popular spot for tourists eager to experience the unique attractions of Mi'gmaq territory. Visitors can enjoy a picnic in the community park or marvel at the impressive tipi erected by the sea in 2018.

For those seeking a more immersive experience, the community of Gesgapegiag offers cozy chalets and traditional tipis in Anse Sainte-Hélène. Alternatively, guests can stay aboard a replica of Jacques Cartier's La Grande Hermine, an iconic vessel from the age of exploration. Nearby, hikers and snowmobilers can take advantage of Le Relais de la Cache, located close to the Chic-Chocs mountain range.

One of the most exciting annual events in the region is the Pow-Wow, a traditional festival held every July. This vibrant celebration sees Mi'gmaq people from across the region coming together to share their culture and traditions through song, dance, and storytelling. Everyone is welcome to join in the festivities and experience the warm hospitality of the Mi'gmaq people.

In the summertime, beach enthusiasts will not want to miss visiting the Baie de Beauport. It has been a popular cruising area for years, offering enchanting scenery on the Saint-Lawrence coastline. Every summer, visitors can practice volleyball, soccer, canoeing, kayaking and sailing, or just relax on the beach and have a swim. Baie de Beauport is located only five minutes away from downtown Québec.

At the far edge of the old port and Nouvo Saint-Roch, Gare du Palais serves as Via Rail’s terminal and links Montréal to Québec City. Built in 1915 by the Canadian Pacific Railway, the two-story châteauesque station is similar in design to the Château Frontenac. This magnificent railway station has been designated as a heritage site.

18km from downtown Québec in the Ste-Foy-Sillery-Cap Rouge district, Jean-Lesage International Airport is the world’s gateway into the capital and the eastern and northern regions of the province. It is the second most important airport in the province after Pierre-Elliott Trudeau in Montréal. Close by, the Grand Time Hotel’s two charming establishments offer travellers some well-deserved rest.

the Lachine Canal, you can discover some of the oldest neighbourhoods of the city, the only ones outside the faubourgs east of Old Montréal (now the Village) that were massively built back when horses ruled the streets. As in the Village, there are still carriage gates that lead into stables. This was before the very British urban concept of alleys was introduced, in the second half of the 19th century.

The redevelopment of Griffintown profoundly transformed Notre-Dame St. which had been the area’s main commercial artery in the 19th century. This was preceded by the restructuring of Little-Burgundy, which had largely gentrified the neighbourhood. It’s where the black Anglophone community was concentrated in the early 20th century, and the birthplace of Montréal’s jazz scene. Also, the redevelopment of the outskirts of the canal south of Notre-Dame further transformed the artery where antique dealers elected residence. Cafés, restaurants and trendy bars began appearing, breathing new life into Notre-Dame St. This renewal stretches to the limits of the downtown area, Peel St. and down at Atwater market in Saint-Henri.

In Pointe-St-Charles, you should definitely visit the Saint-Gabriel house. It’s one of the rare 17th century buildings still standing on the island of Montréal, and the oldest farm house as well. Built by François Le Ber around 1660, this beautiful home hosted the King’s daughters until the year 1673. It was also used as a sewing room and small school. The house was largely destroyed by fire in 1693; only the creamery and the outhouse where untouched by the flames. In 1698, it was rebuilt on the foundations of the original buildings’. Today the house is a museum reminding us of Montréal’s lifestyle during the New France era.

Many people of the gay community have chosen to elect residence in Verdun, south of the canal. First in Ile-des-Soeurs, where many artists and creators moved into the new housing developments along the river. Then others moved to the very heart of Verdun, a former suburb now annexed to Montréal, attracted by the affordable prices. This has largely contributed to revitalizing of Wellington St., the main commercial artery of the neighbourhood.

At the confluence of the Muskrat River and the Ottawa River, Pembroke is main city of Renfrew County, with a population of 15,000.

The first European settlers came to the area now known as Pembroke attracted by the growing lumbering operations of the area.

Originally named Miramichi, the village was renamed after Sidney Herbert, First Admiralty Secretary from 1841 to 1845 and son of George Herbert, 11th Earl of Pembroke. It was named seat for Renfrew County in 1861. This set the stage for construction shortly thereafter on the Renfrew County Courthouse, and the arrival of many civil servants, much wealth and much construction.
From 2005 to 2007, the courthouse and (now disused) jail were re-constructed into one building and historic renovations were also completed. Visitors on weekdays can view original 1867 jail cells in the basement, and the original courtroom, complete with a huge replica of the original brass light fixture. County meetings were held here for many years.
Other historic buildings that survive in Pembroke include a historic synagogue, two original hospitals, the Dunlop mansion (Grey Gables Manor Bed & Breakfast), the 'Munroe Block' downtown, and two houses belonging to the White family. A fire in 1918 downtown destroyed many buildings, including the Pembroke Opera House.

Local attractions include 30 historic murals in the downtown area depicting the history of the city, from steam engines to logging.
At the Champlain Trail Pioneer Village and Museum, the history of Ottawa Valley settlers comes alive inside the fully furnished schoolhouse, pioneer log home and church — all built in the 1800s. Other outdoor exhibits include train station, sawmill, blacksmith shop, stonelifter, carriage shed, woodworking shop, bake oven, smokehouse and a 1923 Bickle fire engine. The large museum features artifacts which range from fossils and First Nations arrowheads to furniture, clothing and manufactured products of Pembroke from various eras. There is also a replica of Samuel de Champlain's Astrolabe (he brought the original to the Valley in 1613), an original Cockburn pointer boat, Corliss steam engine, doctor's examination room, fancy parlour rooms, general store, hair salon and more.

The Pembroke Hydro Museum commemorates national hydro-electric development in Pembroke, including the first electric streetlights in Pembroke, and the first municipal building with electric lights (Victoria Hall).

No visit to Tadoussac is complete without a stroll down Rue du Bord-de-l'Eau to admire the bay and its sheltered marina. This street captures the very soul of Tadoussac. It's easy to understand why locals remain captivated by the views before them - since 2000, Tadoussac Bay has belonged to an exclusive club of the world's most beautiful bays, alongside San Francisco Bay and the Bay of Mont-St-Michel in France.

Standing proudly over the bay is an unmistakable landmark: the elegant white-and-red Hôtel Tadoussac. Everything about this property speaks to its exceptional character - from the vibrant flower gardens and towering trees that surround it, to its history-rich interior with period furnishings, renowned dining room, and breathtaking views.

 

The story of the hotel begins in 1864, when wealthy families from Montreal and Quebec City built the original Hôtel Tadoussac. That first building boasted a grand façade with twelve windows spread across three floors. After changing hands in 1879 for $12,000, it underwent its first major renovation in 1888. Sadly, the original hotel was destroyed in the fall of 1941.

A new chapter began in 1942, when William Hugh Coverdale, an Ontario businessman and president of Canada Steamship Lines, rebuilt the hotel. When it opened its doors on June 27th that year, the new hotel offered 137 rooms to welcome guests.

  

Today's Hôtel Tadoussac carries forward its rich heritage while embracing the future. Though it has changed hands several times, it remains a cherished destination for travelers from around the world.

At the helm since 2000 is Tina Tremblay, who brings her own deep connection to Tadoussac. A graduate of Université Laval's business program in 1981, Tina joined the hotel as financial controller in 1985. She has guided the property through five different ownerships, including three changes between 2005 and 2016, when it was acquired by its current owner, a Canadian real estate management company.

The hotel's reputation as a regional leader in sustainable development owes much to Tina's dedication. Her commitment runs deep - not only does she work on Rue du Bord-de-l'Eau, she calls it home. Born in Tadoussac, she grew up playing on these very grounds and the nearby beach, where her grandmother also lived.

 General Manager since 2000, Tina Tremblay.

Today's guests can enjoy a full range of activities - from swimming and tennis to hiking and whale-watching excursions. The celebrated Coverdale dining room anchors the culinary experience, complemented by two additional venues: William and Café Lounge Coquart. With 60% of visitors coming from Europe, and year-round conference facilities hosting up to 200 people, the hotel buzzes with international energy.

 

Each June, Tadoussac welcomes the Happening des arts, launching the summer season. In 2025, from June 6th to 8th, artists will once again transform the streets into living galleries, creating works in real time across promenades and outdoor spaces - a truly immersive celebration of art against a stunning backdrop.

 

The Hôtel Tadoussac remains a key partner of this event, which grew from the Tadoussac Song Festival that Tina helped create in 1984. Each year, she also welcomes medical students from Université de Sherbrooke, who combine their conference with enjoying the festival's performances.

Tina's connection to local heritage extends beyond the hotel - she co-owns the historic Maison Tremblay, her family's home for four generations. Now available for rental, this century-old house offers a unique gathering space where families can come together, accommodating up to ten guests across five bedrooms.

Hôtel Tadoussac
hoteltadoussac.com
165, Rue du Bord-de-l'Eau
Tadoussac, QC G0T 2A0
(418) 235-4421

By Gaëtan Vaudry
Photo: Héliotrope Editions

At just 31 years of age, his name is already on everyone's lips. Born in Montreal, but a Chicoutimi adoptee by choice, Kevin Lambert is a prolific author collecting the most prestigious awards.

His mantelpiece is already overflowing with numerous accolades, including the best thesis in Arts and Humanities from the University of Montreal, the Pierre L'Hérault Emerging Critic Award, the Discovery Award at the Saguenay−Lac-Saint-Jean Book Fair, the Sade Prize, the CALQ (Quebec Council of Arts and Letters) Prize, the Ringuet Prize, the December Prize, and the 2023 Médicis Prize... to name a few!

Graduating from the University of Montreal with a master's and a doctorate, the writer published his first novel You Will Love What You Have Killed in 2017. In this story set in an unhealthy and morbid Chicoutimi, Kevin Lambert uses hatred as a literary tone and sharply criticizes the xenophobia and homophobia that still prevails in Quebec. The young man already managed to turn many heads, mainly those in the Quebec literary scene. This success set the stage for his second novel, Querelle of Roberval, published a year later. This work - renamed Querelle by his French publisher - narrating the struggle of the workers at the Roberval sawmill against their employer, received a multitude of awards and acknowledgements, propelling Kevin Lambert's name beyond our borders.

Many will remember that in July 2023, Kevin Lambert did not appreciate Quebec's Prime Minister, François Legault, highlighting his latest work Let Our Joy Remain on Twitter. The author fiercely replied to the CAQ leader's literary critique on social media: "Mr. Legault, in the midst of a housing crisis, while your government works to undermine the last bastions protecting us from extreme gentrification in Montreal, promoting my book is pitiful (...) What bothered me was not so much the fact that he reads books that are far from his political ideas or echo chamber, but the interpretation he made of my book in the context of the housing crisis." The two men would subsequently exchange a few messages.

Openly gay, Kevin Lambert, in an interview with La Presse and director René-Richard Cyr in 2021, asserts his desire to contribute to the homosexual affirmation movement in his works: "I like being part of the LGBTQ category," he emphasizes. According to him, the cultural industry imposes changes, adjustments: "Categories don't bother me at all. It's a big machine, the cultural industry, it takes time to move, but it moves.

On November 9, 2023, Kevin Lambert received the Médicis Prize for Let Our Joy Remain, a French literary award established in 1958, intended to honor a novel, a narrative, a collection of short stories, by an author who is beginning or does not yet have a reputation corresponding to their talent. The Médicis comes with a prize of 1000 euros, roughly less than 1500 dollars.

The very name of this ecotourism company already evokes something special. A blend of spatial escape and earthly experience comes to mind even before discovering what it offers.

Pat Gauvin and Émilie Leblanc founded Cielo Glamping Maritime, a year-round ecotourism accommodation site open since January 2019 in Haut-Shippagan, within Acadian territory in New Brunswick. Yet, nothing initially pointed these two young professionals—who worked in vastly different fields—toward entrepreneurship. He was a film and television producer-director; she worked in health and research.

In 2017, when they conceived this project, it was their deep connection to the community, their Acadian heritage, and their desire to showcase local and regional products and producers to a wider audience that inspired them. “There was no model like it in the region or anywhere nearby. Our concept was unique. The dome structures we wanted didn’t exist in the country. We found them in Poland. Then, we designed and built the interiors ourselves. The development site was untouched wilderness, with only a single path leading to it,” explains Patrick, whose family has a long entrepreneurial history near Moncton. Patrick grew up in Haut-Shippagan, while Émilie hails from the region.

Cielo Glamping is located on the shores of St. Simon Bay, where guests can enjoy stunning sunsets from one of five luxurious domes available for rent. These domes, nicknamed the Pearls, are fully equipped small homes featuring a full kitchen, a bathroom with a glass shower, a charcoal BBQ, a hammock, a seasonal outdoor shower, and year-round electric hot tubs.

The Pearl of the Woods: Named for the surrounding forest. Sparse trees and coastal hay highlight an unrivaled view of St. Simon Bay. The Munro Pearl: Offers a unique view of Munro Island, framed by the famous sunsets over the water. It is the only dome with a semi-accessible ramp for people with reduced mobility. The St. Simon Pearl: Showcases the beautiful St. Simon Bay, whose breathtaking sunsets are unforgettable. It is also named after the famous oyster cultivated by Huîtres Mallet. The Moon Pearl: The only dome where guests can bring their dog. Watch the stars from the second-floor bed in this moon-inspired dome. The Lunatia Pearl: Inspired by the Atlantic moon snail found in the bay and the skylight that lets you glimpse the moon.

To give guests a full Acadian experience and showcase local products, they created the Hub—a space focused on sharing resources and networking between community members, visitors, and local producers. The Hub emphasizes developing, producing, promoting, and selling new local products. The Cielo site includes extensive gardens where vegetables, small fruits, and edible flowers are grown and transformed in the on-site kitchen.

Since its inception, the Hub team has created dozens of new products, either made in the commercial kitchen or in collaboration with various regional producers.

The Hub’s unique dining concept revolves around discovering these products and others from New Brunswick producers. Guests can select products from the Hub’s gourmet shop, and the team will transform them into exquisite Cielo sharing boards. Gift boxes with three or more products can also be assembled.

Cielo’s owners, Patrick and Émilie, are thrilled with their growing international recognition, with features in multiple publications and television programs locally and abroad. According to them, 60% of their clientele comes from New Brunswick, about 30% from Quebec and Ontario, and the rest from European tourists.

For now, there are no plans to add more domes or undertake major work. However, the entrepreneurial couple is working on a unique new accommodation project: converting a crabbing boat into a tourist lodging. Patrick and Émilie are sure to keep surprising everyone.

Also, watch for upcoming events in 2024 and 2025: the Hub will host performances by various artists (singers, musicians, etc.) from Acadia and beyond. Memorable evenings await.

Cielo Glamping Maritime
glampingcielo.com
232, Chemin des Huîtres
Haut-Shippagan, New Brunswick
506 601-8005

It’s impossible to explore Acadie without being tempted to stop by Bouctouche and its unique attractions.

Acadie is at the heart of Antonine Maillet’s work, and in Bouctouche, her hometown in the southeastern part of Acadie, a thematic park is dedicated to the world of La Sagouine, her spirited character. Built around her work, Au Pays de la Sagouine is a culturally vibrant destination where Acadian traditions come alive, and the contagious joy of life is ever-present. Visitors can breathe in the salty air of Bouctouche Bay while strolling along the boardwalk leading to Île-aux-Puces, where magic unfolds in a bustling world of endearing characters, performances, music, and theater from June to September. At sunset, Akadi Lumina lights up the nearby wooded trails with an enchanting 1.5-km nighttime journey celebrating vibrant Acadian culture from May to October.

To the east of Bouctouche, the Irving Eco-Centre, sponsored by the billionaire Irving family from New Brunswick, showcases the Dune de Bouctouche, one of the longest dunes in North America, stretching 12 km across Bouctouche Bay. The dune is home to a fragile ecosystem that provides essential habitat for numerous plant and animal species.

In September, the annual Bouctouche Eco-Festival celebrates the region’s exceptional natural and cultural heritage by highlighting coastal ecosystems and local products, while addressing current environmental issues and providing tools for action.

At the Restaurant La Sagouine, located next to the inn of the same name in the heart of the town, visitors can savor Acadian dishes or renowned seafood specialties. It’s a favorite stop for excursion groups, who often unload their passengers for an afternoon meal. The breakfasts here are especially famous.

Long renowned throughout the 20th century for shipbuilding, when large vessels would depart to transport timber overseas, Shippagan also saw significant growth in its fishing industry, ultimately becoming New Brunswick's most important fishing center.

It's no surprise that each year, Shippagan invites friends to celebrate at the New Brunswick Fisheries and Aquaculture Festival, which draws thousands of visitors. Today, it's the peat bog exploitation industry that is experiencing significant growth in the town and regional economy, creating hundreds of jobs.

The University of Moncton operates and manages a campus here, where hundreds of students from various regions and abroad complete programs such as a Bachelor's in Sustainable Development and Coastal Zones, Information Management, Nursing, Technology, Information and Leadership, as well as Diplomas in Business Administration and Health Sciences, among others.



Located slightly off the beaten path, about 15 km from Highway 11 which connects Caraquet, the regional capital, to Tracadie-Sheila, the town of Shippagan offers an abundance of outdoor activities, whether it's camping, kitesurfing, sailing, cycling, sea swimming, or simply relaxing on sandy beaches.

Situated between Saint-Simon Bay and the channel of Chaleur Bay leading to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Shippagan presents magnificent landscapes that can be discovered through its numerous cycling circuits and the shoreline trail that runs behind downtown. Additionally, the Acadian Peninsula Véloroute provides access to the entire Peninsula and features rest areas along its route.



Shippagan houses the New Brunswick Aquarium and Marine Centre. Beautiful aquariums showcase the rich collection of fish and invertebrates from the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Several grey seals are also on display, and visitors can touch seafood and other marine creatures.

The Haut-Shippagan area features a truly unique resort destination: Cielo Glamping. Guests can sleep in fully equipped domes, complete with a terrace and spa, offering direct access to the bay. It's one of the premier spots to disconnect while fully embracing everything nature has to offer. Come share a meal at its Hub where the chef prepares dishes using local ingredients, enjoy coffee from the roastery, or savor a local beer.