The moment you step into this long building, perched on a promontory overlooking the island's final stretch into the great river, you're transported elsewhere. Not that the decor is from another era, but a history lingers, with baker Laurin Dufour making bread here for 50 years.
Boulangerie Bouchard is an institution on the island, and even 'overseas' (meaning the mainland territories of Charlevoix and beyond). Cyclists riding along chemin des Coudriers have adopted the place as a bike rest stop, taking the opportunity to fill up before setting off again.
The legendary crooked pâté of the Isle
They serve some of the most enticing meal platters, including the crooked pâté, whose 'probable' history is brilliantly told by owner Noëlle-Ange Harvey. There seems to be more than one version of this legend. Here's one the baker swears is true. Before the arrival of schooners and later ferries, the islanders had only canoes to reach the north shore. Until 1954, several valiant 'crossers' braved the river with its seasonal constraints and often extreme conditions.
These boatmen transported provisions, mail, schoolchildren, and the sick on a daily basis. Each day, everyone made sure to bring their own meal for the crossing. The small, round meat pie was the staple dish. This little pie didn't stay round for long at the bottom of the canoe, up in the bow, in the thick of the crossing. With the pitching and rolling, the pie often ended up all 'crooked.'
While discussing this with his wife, one of the boatmen suggested she make her pies in a half-moon shape. This way, they would be easier to handle and eat with one hand. That was all it took for the boatman's suggestion to become the norm, and this little delicacy was christened the 'crooked pâté.'
Every day, you can savour dishes made from Charlevoix's rich terroir. You can also buy artisanal breads and breads made with flour from the island's mills. And you'll find everything you need for a good country picnic.
In the back room, they still work with some of the original equipment, including the dough mixer and ovens, which are still in working order. In summer, on sunny days or during the peak tourist season, it's not uncommon to see long queues of people waiting to buy bread... or many other baked goods.
Boulangerie Bouchard
boulangeriebouchard.com
1648, chemin des Coudriers
Île-aux-Coudres (Qc) G0A 3J0
418.438.2454